Wool Pants
After a year of development, the first batch of wool pants have been made. Here’s a video explaining the features.
The first prototype pair was made last year, to wear on a road trip through the north of Scotland. They were based on Belgian M54-56 Cargo Trousers, Gurkha Trousers from the 1950s and Korean war era US army wool trousers.
Baggy, pleated, deep crotch (high rise), using thick melton weave wool. I already knew the benefits of wool trousers, but in Scotland I realised that loose fit and high rise was the key.
Back home I designed a second pair for a winter visit to Japan with the kids. This time I put in a wide waist band, instead of the draw cord waist I used on the pair for Scotland. I added two D ring adjustments at the waist, as well as the ankle cuffs, and put in an extra long button fly. I made a pair for the kids each too.
We enjoyed a month van camping and skiing in Japan. I confirmed the benefits of baggy, that having a deep fly opening was good, and that a wide and high waist band was essential. I also realised that wool is an excellent fabric in the snow. Here’s a video explaining that design at the end of day skiing in Nomugi Toge ski resort.
We returned to Australia and I made a third design, ready for an Australian winter. I lowered the D rings on the waist to where a belt would sit, and continued the webbing around the waist as though it was a belt, to join at the fly using a large slot button. I deepened the patch pockets so the hands sat more comfortably. I also discovered bowyangs, which solved a design problem. I was trying to think of a way to build in a strap just below the knee, but with everyone being a slightly different measurement at that point, it was a problem for production. Discovering the historic use of bowyangs solved that problem, and I promote the return of their use now. Here’s a video explaining the benefits of bowyangs.
There’s one more thing to say, sleeping. Sleeping in your clothes is sometimes necessary. I did it quite a bit in Japan, partly because I was I wanted to be ready in the night if I had to get out of the van and into the snow. I realised my designs were very comfortable to sleep in. No belt needed to be removed. The deep crotch did not restrict that region. The baggy legs did not restrict around the thighs or knees. A comfortable sleep in clothes is a good way to test their comfort and freedom for movement in every other aspect of life. So now I have a mantra, “if you can’t comfortably sleep in your clothes, then you can’t comfortably live in them either”. Here’s a video in the van, in Japan, looking at Fuji, when I first realised this about the wool pants and coat.
I’m really happy with the design of the wool pants now. I have enough melton wool from Japan to make a few more batches, as well as coats. I’m on the lookout for more melton wool for future production runs.
I’ve almost completed the full set of clothing in the Peak Oil Company range. The waxed canvas shell layer - currently an anorak and over pants (in development). The sheepskin vest is an outer layer, typically worn over the wool coat when necessary. The wool pants and coat are the main outer layer, worn over a hemp/cotton knit base layer, and a possum/merino/silk knit mid layer. Here’s a video explaining the concept for a full range of clothing for Peak Oil Company.
I’m not set up for making knits, so I’ve asked Hemp Clothing Australia to organise production of sleeveless and long sleeve shirts, shorts and long pants for us (arrival early 2025). The possum/merino/silk mid layer is supplied by Manawatu Knitting Mills in New Zealand and another batch .
